Thursday, August 20, 2009

Picture on my wall

EACH time I look at the amazing picture adorning my living room wall I find yet another tiny detail I hadn't noticed before, adding to the image's overall beauty and wonderful sense of calm. The tranquility it exudes seems somehow to step out of its frame and pervade the room. The Cloisters of the Saint Paul de Mausole Monastery, in St. Remy de Province, France, have given me so much pleasure over the past three years that until recently I never bothered to find out more about the Monastery itself. Depicted on a limited print of 100 copies the origins of the print and the artist of the original painting are a mystery, but a little research into the history of the 12th Century building has been enlightening. The artist titled his work Van Gogh Hospital, the name by which the asylum within the Monastery grounds has become known sinceVan Gogh's confinement there in 1889-1890. The title in the bottom right hand corner of the print is clear enough, but the signature is illegible. At a pinch it could be something like R.W. Ilsham. For now the artist’s identity must remain a puzzle, I guess, but the day I am lucky enough to solve it and maybe in the process discover other paintings he did, the revelation will be all the sweeter for having been elusive for so long.

The small picturesque town of St. Remy de Province, one of the oldest historical sites in Europe, lies twelve kilometers (about twenty miles) to the south of Avignon. Several structures, such as l'Arc de Triomphe and the city walls remain to this day. The excavated ancient Greek city of Glanum, founded in the 3rd Century BC, and later built over by the Romans is today a popular tourist attraction. St. Remy was the birthplace of the astrologer Michel de Notredame (better known by the Latin name Nostradamus) and it was here that Doctor Albert Schweitzer and his wife were interned for four months at the beginning of World War I.

Saint Paul de Mausole is situated on the outskirts of the town, surrounded by beautiful gardens with rolling fields beyond and blessed with glorious sweeping views of nearby Arles and the Alpes in the distance. The church which originally stood at this spot was probably erected in the 10th Century or even earlier. It was substantially rebuilt during the next couple of hundred years and since then has continued to have parts added on. The cloister to the side of it is built in the Romanesque style apart from the frontage which dates from the 18th Century. It was first occupied by an order of Franciscan monks who began caring for the mentally ill. In 1810 the monastery buildings were purchased for use as a private hospital. Van Gogh became a patient in the final year of his life following his mental breakdown. There are various theories as to what exactly triggered the condition which began with him cutting off part his left ear after an argument with the artist Paul Gauguin. Some say it happened during an epileptic seizure while others believe it was due to severe depression, but whatever the reason, the period he spent in hospital was the most prolific in Vincent Van Gogh's artistic career. He completed 150 canvases, including the well-known works Nuits étoilee à Saint-Remy (Starry Nights) and Vase avec iris (Vase with Irises).

Today the hospital is still a psychiatric institution treating women with emotional problems. There is a separate visitor entrance to the part of the building which now is a museum recording Van Gogh's stay. Art therapy is used to help present day patients and a permanent exhibition and sale of their paintings can be found in the former chapter houses of the monastery and in the Romanesque stairwell. In rooms upstairs displays recount the history of the Saint Paul Mental Hospital and outline psychiatry in the 19th Century. Visitors can also see a reconstruction of the room where Van Gogh was initially confined and the artist's studio which was later set up for him. On sunny days strolling around the immaculately kept monastery gardens is a pleasant way to end a visit.

These days the town of St. Remy has a lively cultural scene. It is home to many artists who regularly exhibit their work. Writers too, such as Gertrude Stein and others have lived in St. Remy and found creative inspiration amongst its charming narrow streets, Mediterranean-style architecture and in the surrounding countryside.

20/08/09

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  2026 is National Year of Reading      Carola Huttmann I AM a housebound writer, book reviewer, essayist, lived experience adviser and in...